Monkey Face Weekends 2001

Ya Just Gotta Love the Exposure

Swarming Monkey Face with a Tyrolean Traverse

CM Technical Climbing Section Monkey Face Weekend No.1

Early on the morning of Sunday, June 17, 2001, Josh Gobershock and Matt Gadow set up a classic Tyrolean Traverse by connecting a rope from the main mesa wall to the mouth cave of Monkey Face.They first anchored a rope to the “diving board” and then trailed that rope while they rapped to the “notch” and free climbed the short pitch up to “Bohn Street”. From the Bohn Street ledge Josh led the Pioneer Route bolt ladder via aid technique to the Mouth Cave where they anchored the trailing rope to establish a fixed rope for others to use to cross from the diving board to the mouth cave. Ann Williams then traversed over to the mouth cave and led the short but airy “Panic Point” pitch (5.7+) to the nose block. After bringing Matt up she then led the last moderate pitch to the amazingly flat summit of the Monkey.

Josh Gobershock & Matt Gadow Norm on the Tyrolean while Cate & Josh climb the bolt ladder Brent leading the "Panic Point" pitch
Julie Z rapping out in space from the Monkey's nose block

Monkey Face Revisited


Twenty-one fun-seeking climbers descended on Smith Rock State Park’s world-famous spire: Monkey Face, home of Just Do It (5.14c), once the hardest free climb in the world.

Once Matt Gadow, Brent McGregor and Kurt Pothast successfully established a Tyrolean Traverse from the “diving board” to the Monkey’s mouth cave Matt, Brent, Allen Light and Ann Williams successfully reached the summit.

Sunday morning’s Amazing and Incredible Brunch lived up to it’s billing by offering eggs any style, Denver omelets, honey-cured bacon, pancakes, sweet rolls, honeydew melon, cantaloupe, French-press Starbucks coffee with optional flavored creamer, hot chocolate and the piece de resistance – Tequila Sunrise’s!

Who says John Krog, acting as the Master Chef, can heat but can’t cook!